Being a Friday morning, the streets of Cairo were empty. We took the metro a few stops north to Coptic, or Christian, Cairo. As you walk out of the metro station you can see the Church of St George, which dates back to the 10th century.
You think that's old? The church next to it, the Hanging Church, is one of the oldest churches in Egypt. The history of a church on this site dates back to the 3rd century AD. We arrived during a service but everyone was happy for us to stand at the back and observe. The church was full of incense and people praying and singing. It's called the Hanging Church because it was built above a Roman fortress, although the Roman tower is now buried underground.
The entrance to the church has beautiful mosaics around it, which show Mary and Joseph carrying the baby Jesus. These mosaics are relatively modern but most of the church pre-dates Islamic times, which is interesting considering there are several features we now associate with quintessential Islamic art and architecture. Check out the distinctive arches and patterns on the walls pictured below. Look familiar? And yet here they are on a Christian church. Of course the history of all art and architecture is one of appropriation and reinvention but it was interesting to see it so clearly here.
We then entered the narrow laneways of Coptic Cairo. It's a small area, but a maze of streets. We came across Abu Serga, the church that contains the remains of Saint Bacchus and Saint Sergius. It's believed that Mary, Joseph and Jesus rested in the crypt of the church durin their journey into Egypt. It's a fascinating part of Cairo.
We also stumbled across this scene. No studio, just a tattoo artist in a laneway. And apparently no pain - look at that smile (not the guy at the back photobombing).
Tattoos are common amongst the Coptic Christians who often get crosses or biblical verses tattooed on their hands are arms. It's always a religious theme and they are pretty much the only tattoos you see in Cairo. Hipster sleeves and conspicuous ink haven't made any indent here, or are being covered up. Don't worry Dad, we didn't partake.
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